2024年10月7日,西班牙,圣塞巴斯蒂安 (San Sebastian,Spain),Lamelas(Porto Covo)的厨师安娜·莫拉(Ana Moura)现场准备了一道有鱼和海鲜的米饭,回忆起她在圣塞巴斯蒂安的时光,并解释了她回到Alentejo的原因。
葡萄牙的人均大米消费量是西班牙的五倍。有了这个数字,Ana Moura(Lamelas,Porto Covo)明确表示这是邻国的国菜,她提出了当场准备鱼和海鲜米饭的食谱的理由,对她来说,这是“我菜单上唯一不变的菜”。
她在圣塞巴斯蒂安的库萨尔礼堂做了这件事,对她来说,这是“世界上最好的城市”。在这里,在Arzak和Astelena的厨房里,她学会了品尝每一道食谱的重要性,正如Elena Arzak所坚持的那样,也学会了人与人之间关系的重要性:与同事、供应商、客户……
她还了解了sofrito的重要性,这是赋予食谱风味的原因。莫拉在sofrito中使用了胡椒、番茄和洋葱,但香菜呢?总有一位顾客要求我不要添加,但我试图说服他们,”她说。鱼汤和米饭的烹饪时间也很重要,大约20分钟。莫拉通常使用约翰·多莉和比目鱼作为主要鱼类,并依靠大虾作为海鲜。她总结道:“我的米饭最重要的是味道。”。
在题为“乡村世界的新美食”的演讲中,她还分享了一些关于他的项目和葡萄牙美食的趣闻。Lamelas是她在Porto Covo的餐厅,这是一个位于大海和乡村之间的小镇,是阿连特茹海岸的一个渔村。我们在那里做沿海菜,我90%的菜都是以鱼为基础的,”他指出。
她选择波尔图科沃是因为他的家人已经在那里生活了三代人,但也是因为她想证明,在远离大城市的地方创建一家很棒的餐厅是可能的,大城市集中了一切:“就我而言,这是一种回馈我过去度假的土地和我有家人的土地的方式,”他承认。她通过使用当地供应商来做到这一点,“因为这给了一切意义”。
Rice, Portugal's national dish
Ana Moura, chef at Lamelas (Porto Covo), prepares a rice dish with fish and seafood live, recalling her time in San Sebastian and explaining her return to the Alentejo.
Per capita rice consumption in Portugal is five times higher than in Spain. With this figure, Ana Moura (Lamelas, Porto Covo) made it clear that it is the national dish of the neighbouring country, and she made the case for preparing a recipe for rice with fish and seafood on the spot, which for her is "the only dish on my menu that doesn't change".
She did this in the Kursaal Auditorium in San Sebastian, which for her is "the best city in the world". Here, in the kitchens of Arzak and Astelena, she learnt the importance of tasting every recipe, as Elena Arzak insisted, but also the importance of relationships between people: with colleagues, with suppliers, with customers....
She also learnt the importance of the sofrito, which is what gives the recipe its flavour. Moura uses pepper, tomato and onion in the sofrito, but what about coriander? There is always a customer who asks me not to add it, but I try to convince them," she says. The fish stock is also very important, as is the cooking time of the rice, which is around twenty minutes. Moura usually uses John Dory and sole as the main fish and relies on prawns for the seafood. The most important thing about my rice is the taste," she sums up.
In her talk, entitled 'New cuisine in the rural world', she also shared a few tidbits about his project and Portuguese cuisine. Lamelas is her restaurant in Porto Covo, a town between the sea and the countryside, a fishing village on the Alentejo coast. There we practice coastal cuisine, 90% of my dishes are based on fish," he points out.
She chose Porto Covo because his family has lived there for three generations, but also because she wanted to show that it is possible to create a great restaurant far from the big cities that concentrate everything: "In my case, it is a way of giving back to the land where I used to go on holiday and where I have family what that land has given me," he confessed. And she does it by using local suppliers, "because that gives everything meaning".