2024年10月7日，西班牙，圣塞巴斯蒂安 （San Sebastian，Spain），三星级Noor de Córdoba餐厅的厨师Paco Morales和他的主厨Paola Gualandi解释了基于安达卢西亚文化的独特美食背后的创作过程。
在Ferran Adrià和Andoni Luis Aduriz等著名厨房工作后，Paco Morales在家乡科尔多瓦的Cañero社区找到了自己的空间。在历史学家罗莎·托瓦尔的帮助下，他研究了阿拉伯食谱书，探索了安达卢斯文化的起源，并在此基础上建立了努尔餐厅的支柱，他用安达卢西亚美食的美味精髓征服了食客。在Gastronomika餐厅，他与他的得力助手、年轻的意大利厨师Paola Gualandi一起，在科尔多瓦美食遗产推广的演讲中展示了他备受赞誉的提案的勇气，该提案融合了历史和风味。
Paola解释说：“Paco和Paola对他们的项目所基于的五个基础进行了实用的解释，如历史和流行文化、18世纪的糖果、一系列葡萄酒（也由侍酒师Joel Prados研究）以及识别Noor的物体的设计。”他展示了一些木材、纺织品和陶瓷的例子，这些例子将作为餐厅装饰和厨房创作的特殊框架。
安达卢西亚前卫菜肴的传统
帕科在开始讲述努尔菜单中三道美丽菜肴的创作之前说：“我们的菜肴是一种领土和情感的菜肴，有着深厚的历史研究基础。”。第一种，两个天然大虾配葡萄柚果冻、迷迭香油和来自Fuenteovejuna的蓝奶酪雪，“给它一种辛辣的回味”。接着是番茄和鸽胸肉沙拉，“在非常成熟的番茄水中用初榨橄榄油和葛缕子腌制20分钟，这一配方的灵感来自Juan de la Mata在其18世纪关于高级糕点的论文中”，在切片前做了标记，然后用番茄酱、腌鲣鱼和羊奶酪放在盘子里，用安达卢西亚石榴水和醋的混合物调味。
第三道菜以一盘菠萝开始了关于甜点的章节，菠萝是“18世纪非常精英化的食物，现在由于一家著名的连锁超市而变得如此时尚”，它提供了一个讽刺的例子，说明流行文化如何影响了当时的美食。帕科说：“我们做的每一件事都有很多机会，面对怀疑的海洋，我们总是喜欢参与其中并承担风险。”。在奶油罗勒和莳萝酱上，Paola将菠萝块放入伏特加糖浆中半小时，加入雪利酒醋凝胶、脆荞麦和一片“自制”马斯卡彭。我们的诀窍是只用天然柠檬酸化牛奶，”厨师透露。
最后，他们向观众解释了菜单上五个小蛋糕的含义，包括开心果和樱桃霍查塔，以及基于旋转鸡蛋概念的柑橘番茄酱，这两种都是受瓦伦西亚启发的；一种阿拉贡平底锅水果，形状为填满杏仁的油条；或者是塞满卤肉的bombón，带有明显的安达卢西亚风味。最后，侍酒师Joel Prados的一段视频解释了这些美食与精心挑选的奥洛罗葡萄酒和蒸馏酒的精心搭配。
Paco Morales: 'We must continue to focus on history and tradition'
Paco Morales, chef at the three-star Noor de Córdoba, and his chef de cuisine Paola Gualandi explain the creative process behind a unique cuisine based on Andalusian culture.
After working in illustrious kitchens such as those of Ferran Adrià and Andoni Luis Aduriz, Paco Morales found his own space in the modest Cañero neighbourhood of his native Cordoba. With the help of historian Rosa Tovar, he researched Arabic recipe books and explored the origins of the culture of Al Andalus, on which he built the pillars of Noor, a restaurant from which he conquers diners with the tasty essence of Andalusian cuisine. At Gastronomika, together with his right-hand woman, the young Italian chef Paola Gualandi, he showed the courage of his acclaimed proposal, which plays with history and flavour, in a presentation promoted by Cordoba Gastronomic Heritage.
Paco and Paola gave a practical explanation of the five bases on which their project is based, such as history and popular culture, 18th century confectionery, a selection of wines, also studied by sommelier Joel Prados, and the design of the objects that identify Noor,' explained Paola, showing some examples of wood, textiles and ceramics that will serve as an exceptional framework both for the decoration of the restaurant and to contain the creations that come out of the kitchen.
Andalusian tradition in avant-garde dishes
Ours is a cuisine of territory and emotion, with a strong base of historical research,' argues Paco, before beginning to recount the creation of three beautiful dishes that form part of Noor's menu. The first, two natural prawns with grapefruit jelly, rosemary oil and blue cheese snow from Fuenteovejuna, "to give it a spicy aftertaste". This was followed by a salad of tomatoes and pigeon breast 'marinated for 20 minutes in very ripe tomato water with virgin olive oil and caraway, a formula inspired by Juan de la Mata in his 18th-century treatise on haute patisserie', which was marked before being filleted and served on the plate with tomato sauce, salted bonito and sheep's cheese, seasoned with an Andalusian mixture of pomegranate water and drops of vinegar.
The third dish began the chapter on desserts with a dish of pineapple, 'a very elitist food in the 18th century, now so fashionable thanks to a famous supermarket chain', providing an ironic example of how popular culture conditions the gastronomy of the moment. There is a lot of chance in everything we do," says Paco, "and in the face of a sea of doubt, we always like to get involved and take risks. On a creamy basil and dill sauce, Paola placed cubes of pineapple in a vodka syrup for half an hour, adding sherry vinegar gel, crispy buckwheat and a slice of 'homemade' mascarpone. Our trick is to acidify the cow's milk using only natural lemon," the chef revealed.
Finally, they explained to the audience the meaning of the five petit fours on the menu, including a pistachio and cherry horchata and a mandarin tocinillo based on the concept of the spun egg, both inspired by Valencia; an Aragonese pan fruit in the form of a fritter filled with almonds; or the bombón stuffed with adobo, with a clear Andalusian essence. Finally, a video by sommelier Joel Prados explains the carefully studied pairing of these delicacies with oloroso wines and distillates, also carefully selected.
