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Eneko Atxa:“香气是一种看不见的成分,但它无处不在”
发布日期:2024年10月12日  来源:旅游休闲

2024年10月8日,西班牙,圣塞巴斯蒂安 (San Sebastian,Spain)。在Gastronomika,国际美食界最重要的名字之一将展示如何将香气融入菜肴并使其完美。 多年来,他一直在努力捕捉环境中的自然香气,并将其连贯地转移到他的烹饪世界中,直到实现这一目标,他才停止。我喜

202410月8日,西班牙,圣塞巴斯蒂安 (San Sebastian,Spain)。在Gastronomika,国际美食界最重要的名字之一将展示如何将香气融入菜肴并使其完美。

多年来,他一直在努力捕捉环境中的自然香气,并将其连贯地转移到他的烹饪世界中,直到实现这一目标,他才停止。我喜欢更深入地研究我开始的每个项目,因为这是进化的唯一途径”,他在展示了他于2007年与巴斯克地区大学高级化学系开始的一个项目的进展后承认,如今,这个项目使他几乎可以将新鲜出炉的面包、割草、木头、余烬或“带我回到童年的烤栗子”的气味作为主要成分。他向我们保证,香气是幸福的前奏。

在鱼缸中,Eneko展示了聚焦超声波如何产生微振动,使任何浸没物体的气味分子释放并浸入水中。问题是,它们在水中蒸发得很快,甚至变质,所以寿命太短。因此,我们使用油作为固定剂,当它与甘油一起燃烧时,也会释放分子,但它们会持续更长时间,他解释道。这是一种技术,他们不仅用它为新菜肴创造芳香成分,而且“在空间中创造一种令人回味的效果”。例如,在Azurmendi***Larrabetzu)的花园里,我们在第一关就这样做,这样零食才能与环境融为一体。


香味可以食用

在解释了这个有趣项目的发展后,Eneko转向了他演讲的表演烹饪部分,现场演示了香气是如何制备的,以及它们是如何与其他成分“像在一个coupage中”混合的,以一种美妙的方式唤起缺失的元素,甚至让用餐者感到困惑和惊讶。例如,他用烟囱的味道把烤辣椒冰淇淋包在烟囱里,引发了冷热之间的冲突。他还展示了如何用它来丰富海胆、海藻或任何海鲜炖菜等菜肴的口感,让人联想到大海的薄雾。

他还完成了一道有防腐油香气的鱼汤,“让它几乎有嚼劲”,一盘海鲜花岗岩牡蛎甚至没有靠近火,“只是增添了烤藤芽的香气”。最后,一道伊比利亚猪肉配猪蹄汤,配以琵琶香蒜酱、蘑菇和酥脆的脸颊,他还加入了新鲜煮好的咖啡的香气,让观众的味蕾大开。



Eneko Atxa: 'Flavour is an invisible ingredient, but it is very present'

At Gastronomika, one of the most important names in international gastronomy will be demonstrating how to incorporate aromas into a dish and make it perfect.

He has been working for years to capture the natural aromas of his environment and to transfer them coherently into his culinary universe, and he has not stopped until he has achieved this. I like to go deeper into each project I start, because that is the only way to evolve", he confesses, after showing the progress of a project he started in 2007 with the Department of Advanced Chemistry of the University of the Basque Country, which today allows him to incorporate, almost as a main ingredient, the scent of freshly baked bread, cut grass, woods, embers or "roasted chestnuts that take me back to my childhood". The aroma is the preamble to happiness', he assures us.

In a fish tank, Eneko demonstrated how focused ultrasound creates micro-vibrations that cause the odour molecules of any submerged object to be released and impregnated in the water. The problem is that in water they evaporate very quickly or even deteriorate, so it is too short-lived. So we use oil as a fixative, which, when burned together with the glycerine, also releases the molecules, but they last longer,' he explains. It is a technique that they use not only to create aromatic ingredients for new dishes, but also "to create an evocative effect in spaces". In the garden of Azurmendi*** (Larrabetzu), for example, we do it in the first pass so that the snacks blend in with the environment.

The aroma is edible

After explaining the development of this interesting project, Eneko moved on to the show cooking part of his presentation, demonstrating live how the aromas are prepared and how they blend with the rest of the ingredients 'as in a coupage', to evoke elements that are absent or even confuse and surprise the diner in a wonderful way. For example, with a chimney flavour, he wrapped a roasted pepper ice cream in a chimney, provoking a clash of ideas between hot and cold. And he showed how it can be used to enrich dishes such as sea urchin in textures, seaweed or any seafood stew, evoking the mist of the sea.

He also completed a fish soup with the aroma of preserved oil, "making it almost chewy", and a dish of oysters with seafood granita was given a hint of glow without even bringing it close to the fire, "simply adding the aroma of toasted vine shoots". Finally, a dish of Iberian pork in trotter broth with piparras pesto, mushrooms and crispy cheeks, to which he added the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, left the audience with their taste buds wide open.

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